“Are you ready? Because I want you to pay attention. This is the beginning of something.”
So opens Season 7 of AMC's Mad Men, with Sterling Cooper copywriter Freddie Rumsen pitching the new Accutron watch from Bulova. “Accutron,” he intones. “It’s not a timepiece — it’s a conversation piece."
In 1960, this thought-provoking electronic watch offered state of the art technology and design. But in order to fully understand its significance, we need to turn back the proverbial clock for a moment — all the way back to 1875. Nearly 150 years ago, Joseph Bulova established a small jewelry shop in Queens, no doubt unaware of its vast potential. In 1912, the firm opened a movement manufacture in Biel, Switzerland, carting over American mass-production methods. Within a few decades, Bulova had grown into one of the most important watchmaking manufactures in the United States.
By the 1950s, progress was being made within the realm of electronic watches as an alternative to traditional mechanical watchmaking. But it was the Bulova Accutron that brought a degree of hitherto unheard-of accuracy and robustness to the scene in 1960. Its tuning fork oscillator, beating at a consistent 360 Hz, swept a seconds hand smoothly around the dial periphery, while a dry cell battery provided a constant flow of power via an electromagnetic coil. This technology, developed by Swiss engineer Max Hetzel, was inspired by a tuning-fork clock built in the 19th century by Abraham-Louis Breguet, grandson of perhaps the most important watchmaker in history.
The Accutron — especially in its futuristic, transparent Spaceview guise — quickly found its way onto the wrists of test pilots, astronauts, and everyday people searching for a reliable, handsome timepiece. And though its movement technology would later be eclipsed by more inexpensive, quartz-powered systems, its legacy has endured all the way into the 21st century. In 2020, Accutron was spun off from Bulova into its own distinct entity, charged with the caretaking of a legendary development that has come to define horological ingenuity in the 20th century.
Beyond the debut of their brand-new Spaceview 2020 and Accutron DNA models, Accutron also reached into their back catalog of magical mid-century designs, and thus, the Legacy Collection was born. The Accutron Legacy Collection is a modern re-imagining of the brand's most memorable pieces from the 1960s and 1970s. Using mechanical movements as a nod to their roots in traditional watchmaking, these timepieces were directly inspired from their original briefs and have captured the hearts of enthusiasts today. The blend of mid-century styling and mechanical internals perfectly represent the ebb and flow of technology and design.
In our opinion, the Accutron 203 is easily the most adored out of the Legacy Collection. When you combine its whimsical case design with a dial that's heavy on the details, there really isn't anything negative you can possibly say other than it might take away precious wrist-time from the other watches in your collection.
Pulled directly from Accutron's archives, this 203 Legacy features a two-tone 34mm 'floppy football' case, a domed sapphire crystal, and a gold-tone 'tuning fork' signed crown. All Legacy Collection models were produced as a limited edition and come with an individually numbered caseback with a sapphire display aperture providing a glimpse of their mechanical underpinnings.
The champagne Pie-Pan dial features applied hour indices, a matching gold-tone handset, and our favorite part, a minute track with each marker individually applied. When you factor in the dial shape and domed crystal, this specific design feature brings the dial to life!
Outfitted with signed brown alligator leather strap with a stainless steel deployant buckle, this mint, unworn piece is accompanied by its complete inner and outer box set, books, serialized hangtag, warranty certificate, Limited Edition card, and Factory Certified Pre-Owned card.
Irregularly-shaped cases and avant-garde designs are absolutely hot right now, and considering this piece checks those boxes, it's safe to say that Accutron's legacy is its timeless design.