Introduced in the late 1960s, the Patek Philippe Ellipse was inspired by the Golden Ratio, referred to as the ‘Divine Proportion’ by Luca Pacioli. An observed ratio in nature, the Golden Ratio is said to be an aesthetically balanced ratio used on the human body, trees, and more. With the Ellipse, Patek made the ratio of the major to the minor axis 1.618 to 1— the golden ratio, de divina proportione.
The same shape is applied to the pin buckle, which itself is an ellipse. Debuting eight years before the iconic Nautilus, the Ellipse—with its distinctive oval shape—was unlike anything else in Patek Philippe’s catalogs. During the 60s and 70s, the Ellipse line became emblematic of the era for design and signaled an elevated level of taste, particularly given the popularity of function-first tool watches that defined the 1960s for many.
The Ellipse was designed to create a new design immediately recognizable as luxurious in a changing industry. Keep in mind that the Ellipse launched just before the quartz crisis. Patek was well aware of what was coming, and responded preemptively with a banger. The Ellipse became the watch to have if you were successful. Today, the Ellipse remains an excellent value in the world of vintage and neo-vintage Patek Philippe.
This particular Ellipse, Reference 3567/1J, is one of the most unique configurations for the Ellipse, executed in yellow gold with a black contrast dial, applied yellow gold indices, and a 'pencil' handset. Plus, this one is outfitted with a brilliant Patek 'hammered' integrated bracelet. Powered by Patek's manually-wound Calibre 175 movement, this watch truly captures the aesthetic of many of Patek’s lesser appreciated references from the 1970s. There’s an incredible amount of value in this section of the industry, and these pieces certainly deserve your attention.
Thierry Stern best described the Ellipse in 2018 celebrating the 50th anniversary of the model: “It’s one of those watches that shows you how to make a Patek Philippe. No gimmicks, just purity and beauty expressed through simple design”.
‘Nough said.
While for many years the Ellipse line fell out of popular favor, we’ve seen a resurgence of collector enthusiast interest in the design in recent years. Watches such as this one are delightful timepieces that stand out brilliantly in a room full of steel sports watches, once again signaling an elevated understanding of what watchmaking can — and perhaps should — be.
*Due to the design of this bracelet, sizing alterations may require custom work. Lead time after measurements are established is 4-6 weeks.*